Piccadilly Partnership




Review of Grado

In anticipation of our October ‘Review Piccadilly’ competition, some of the team here at piccadillymanchester.com ventured along to Grado to see what it had to offer. Then we thought we’d write about it.

For those who have been to Grado before, or have at least heard about it, there’s little to say about its first impression; it’s clean, functional and if you go of an evening, has some very moody lighting. We took an early evening table and were in fact the first table to be seated. Aside from a number of people enjoying after work drinks in the restaurant’s bar area, we were alone in the restaurant. Obviously nobody eats early anymore.

First decision to be made was drinks. It’s been said before that Grado’s wine menu is extensive. After all, it’s won awards for it, so it must be pretty good. For ease, we went with the Borsao Macabeo, Campo De Borja. Cheapest on the menu and light enough to not give the two lightweights at the table a headache. Result.
Choosing from the menu wasn’t as easy as you’d hope; obviously, being in a Spanish-themed restaurant, it’s little surprise that the menu adopts the language. But if you’re not au fait with said Mediterranean tongue, your decision won’t be that easy. Luckily, we happened upon an extremely attentive member of staff, who was more than happy to explain.

My colleague and meal companion for the evening chose the Gambas la Plancha with aioli (£7.95) to start. For the non-Spanish speakers amongst us, that’s chargrilled shrimps. It would have been rude not to sample one of the beasts (they were particularly large), and was happy to find them cooked very well with some extremely flavoursome aioli on the side.
I decided to tread a familiar Spanish-route and plumped for the Tortilla Española (£4.95). Nicely presented, with a more egg-heavy consistency than past tortillas I’ve tried. As it was lighter than expected, I was left looking forward to the main, rather than feeling overfaced at the prospect of the next course.

Conversation at the table, sometimes work, sometimes play, came to a momentary standstill when we saw two Piccadilly Partnership board members taking their seats behind us; David Partridge (joint chief executive of Argent) and Sir Howard Bernstein (chief executive of Manchester City Council) were dining together – nice to see they’re using a Piccadilly venue to do business. The arrival of the mains soon distracted us from further shop talk; as decoratively presented as you’d expect, the Roast Pork from the charcoal oven (pictured), with chorizo and a baked potato (£13.50) was much bigger than envisaged.

Roast pork from the charcoal grill, Grado I had been fearful that Grado would serve tiny portions unable to satisfy anyone with a normal appetite. Fortunately these fears came to nothing. The pork was tender and the chorizo was unbelievably tasty, with a real punchy, authentic favour (although due to greed, would have liked more!).
My colleague went for the Sea Bass a la plancha, watercress, toasted almonds and honey (£16.00) – aside from a couple of non-fatal bone incidents, I’m told the meal was very light and just what was needed after the person in question had eaten her weight in Ferrero Rocher that day.

After some umming and ahhing about whether to treat ourselves to desserts, followed by a thought-provoking crème caramel versus crème brûlée debate, the former won the battle under the guise of Flan caramelised egg custard (£5.00) alongside a Bomba Chocolate (£7) (pictured); a delicious chocolate pudding with a small vanilla ice cream accompaniment. There are no two ways about it; this dessert was delicious. It was sweet enough to satisfy the inevitable cravings that follow a savoury, meat-heavy main, but not too sweet that it left me feeling uncomfortable. Good choice, I think.

Bomba chocolate pudding, Grado

Throughout the meal, the staff remained highly attentive, even as the restaurant filled up throughout the evening. More or less averagely priced for what you get, the experience felt like a treat without the usual onset of financial worry.

The main difficulty that this restaurant faces, as I’m sure the management would agree, is location. Based on New York Street, it is just off the main stomping grounds of Piccadilly and doesn’t get the large amount of passing trade that other food venues in the centre benefit from. However, you get the impression that those who know about it, frequently return. And with new head chef Paul Flavell now in place (we’ll collar him for an interview soon), it’ll be interesting to see what he brings to the Grado table.

If you fancy trying Grado’s wares (and then even submit a review of your experience), call 0161 238 9790 or book HERE.

Fancy reviewing a Piccadilly food/drink venue all by yourself? Then enter our October competition HERE for your chance to win a meal for two!